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Rainforest
and desert lie close together in the southwest corner
of the country, while in the east a short drive can
take you from fjords to lush orchards. What's more,
great tracts of Canada
are completely unspoiled - ninety percent of the country's
28.5 million population lives within 100 miles of
the US border.
Canada's most southerly region, south Ontario , contains
not only the manufacturing heart of the country and
its largest city, Toronto , but also Niagara Falls
, Canada's premier tourist sight. North of Toronto
there's the far less packaged scenic attraction of
Georgian Bay , a beautiful waterscape of pine-studded
islets set against crystal-blue waters. Like the forested
Algonquin park, the bay is also accessible from the
capital city of Ottawa , not as dynamic a place as
Toronto, but still well worth a stay for its art galleries
and museums.
Québec
, set apart from the rest of the continent by the
profundity of its French tradition, focuses on its
biggest city, Montréal , which is for many
people the most vibrant place in the country, a fascinating
mix of old-world style and commercial dynamism. The
pace of life is more relaxed in the historic provincial
capital, Québec City , and more easy-going
still in the villages dotted along the St Lawrence
lowlands, where glittering spires attest to the enduring
influence of the Catholic Church. For something more
bracing, you could continue north to Tadoussac , where
whales can be seen near the mouth of the splendid
Saguenay fjord - and if you're really prepared for
the wilds, forge on through to Labrador , as inhospitable
a zone as you'll find in the east.
Across the mouth of
the St Lawrence, the pastoral Gaspé peninsula
- the easternmost part of Québec - borders
New Brunswick , a mild-mannered introduction to the
three Maritime Provinces , whose people have long
been dependent on timber and the sea for their livelihood.
Here, the tapering Bay of Fundy boasts amazing tides
- rising and falling by nine metres, sometimes more
- whilst the tiny fishing villages characteristic
of the region are at their most beguiling near Halifax
, the bustling capital of Nova Scotia . Perhaps even
prettier, and certainly more austere, are the land
and seascapes of Cape Breton Island , whose rugged
topography anticipates that of the island of Newfoundland
to the north. Newfoundland's isolation has spawned
a distinctive culture that's at its most lively in
the capital, St John's , where the local folk-music
scene is the country's best. The island also boasts
some of the Atlantic seaboard's finest landscapes,
particularly the flat-topped peaks and glacier-gouged
lakes of Gros Morne National Park .
Back on the mainland,
separating Ontario from Alberta and the Rockies, the
so-called prairie provinces of Manitoba and Saskatchewan
have a reputation for dullness that's somewhat unfair:
even in the flat southern parts there's the diversion
of Winnipeg , whose traces of its early days make
it a good place to break a trans-Canadian journey.
To the north, the myriad lakes and gigantic forests
of the provinces' wilderness regions offer magnificent
canoeing and hiking, especially within Prince Albert
National Park . Up in the far north, beside Hudson
Bay, the settlement of Churchill - remote but accessible
by train - is famous for its polar bears, who gather
near town from the end of June waiting to move out
over the ice as soon as the bay freezes.
Moving west, Alberta's
wheatfields ripple into ranching country on the approach
to the Canadian Rockies , whose international reputation
is more than borne out by the reality. The provincial
capital, Edmonton , is overshadowed by Calgary , a
brash place grown fat on the region's oil and gas
fields, and the most useful springboard for a venture
into the mountains. British
Columbia embodies the popular picture of Canada
to perfection: a land of snowcapped summits, rivers
and forests, pioneer villages, gold-rush ghost towns,
and some of the greatest hiking, skiing, fishing and
canoeing opportunities in the world. Its urban focus,
Vancouver , is the country's third city, known for
its spectacular natural setting and a laid-back West
Coast hedonism. Off the coast lies Vancouver Island
, a microcosm of the province's immense natural riches,
and home to Victoria , a devotedly anglophile little
city.
North of British Columbia,
wedged alongside Alaska, is the Yukon Territory ,
half grandiose mountains, half subarctic tundra, and
full of evocative echoes of the Klondike gold rush.
Whitehorse , its capital, and Dawson City , a gold-rush
relic, are virtually the only towns here, each accessed
by dramatic frontier highways. The Northwest Territories
and Nunavut , arching over the provinces of Alberta,
Saskatchewan and Manitoba, are an immensity of stunted
forest, lakes, tundra and ice, the realm of Dene and
Inuit native bands whose traditional way of life is
being threatened as oil and gas exploration reaches
up into the Arctic. Roads are virtually non-existent
in the deep north, and only Yellowknife , a bizarre
frontier city, plus a handful of ramshackle villages,
offer the air links and resources necessary to explore
this wilderness.
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